Leather and hardware are probably the two things we spend the most time looking at.
After working with them for a while, you start to notice details that aren't always obvious in a photograph — the smell of leather, the weight of a buckle, the difference between two gold finishes, or how a piece of hardware feels when you actually use it.
These are some of the things we've learned along the way.
Leather
What does real leather smell like?
Real leather has a smell — that's normal. The tricky part is knowing what a good leather smell actually smells like.
Depending on the leather and how it has been finished, you might notice something slightly woody, like a new book or unfinished wood, with a faint natural oiliness. Sometimes there's even a very light smoky note.
What you generally don't want is a strong plastic, chemical, or overly sweet smell. Some artificial leathers can have a noticeable plastic-like scent, while heavily perfumed materials may simply be masking the original smell.
It's not a perfect test — tanning and finishing can change the smell of leather quite a lot. But if you're shopping for leather in person, it's worth getting close and taking a breath.
Rub the surface gently between your fingers to warm it up, then smell it again.
You'll start to get a feel for it.
The leather we use
We mainly use top-grain leather for our pieces. We like the balance of durability, flexibility, and the way it develops with use.
When choosing a leather, we look at its grain, thickness, flexibility, surface, and how it behaves in the particular design we're making.
A leather that works beautifully for a handbag may not be the right choice for a collar. Some are too stiff, some don't have enough structure, and some simply don't feel right against the skin.
Natural leather will also have small differences in grain and texture. We don't consider those flaws. They're part of the material.
Hardware
Hardware turned out to be a much bigger subject than we expected.
There are plenty of pieces that look almost identical in a photograph but feel completely different in person. Weight, finish, metal, plating, and even the shape of a small edge can change the way a piece feels.
Stainless steel is practical and resistant to rust, but different grades and finishes can have very different appearances and durability.
Copper has a warm, substantial feel and develops a natural patina over time. It can also change color and has a more noticeable metallic smell.
For some designs, we use gold-plated hardware for its bright, polished finish. The quality of the plating makes a noticeable difference, especially on pieces that are handled frequently. If you have a known metal sensitivity, it's always worth checking the material of the specific hardware you're considering.
There isn't one material that's best for everything. It depends on the piece.
The Small Details
For hardware we use often, we sometimes work directly with manufacturers to develop our own versions.
Our buckles and leash chains, for example, have gone through several samples. We adjust the shape, weight, proportions, and finish until they feel right with the leather and in the hand.
Sometimes the difference is obvious.
Sometimes it's a few millimeters that nobody else would notice.
We source from different suppliers and compare materials constantly. We've visited leather and hardware manufacturers in Italy and Guangzhou, and over time we've built relationships with suppliers we trust.
The more materials we see, the easier it becomes to tell where a hChooIvyigher price actually makes a difference — and where it doesn't.
That's usually how we make our choices.
Not the most expensive material.
Not the cheapest one.
Just the one that makes the most sense for the piece we're making.